19/10/2014

The History of Perfume


The story of fragrances and more precisely of perfume is inextricably linked to that of humanity.

Since the Antiquity, Greeks and Egyptians burned plants and resins. The word “perfume” came from the Latin word “per fumum” which means “by smoke”.
Picture of Egyptian women, 1300 BC - Afrique
from http://www.egodesign.ca/fr/article_print.php?article_id=601

At times and according the civilizations, perfume had different uses and so the techniques had evolved. Indeed, the Romans were very ingenious in creating new fragrances that they spread after on floors or walls, even on animals as horses or dogs.
Then, when the rise of Christianity had stopped the use of perfume in the Middle East, the Arabs preserved it and improved the distillation techniques thanks to the invention of the still and the discovery of ethyl alcohol.

Contrary to common beliefs, during the Middle Age, people are fond of washing and bathing. The pomander, a sort of perfume holder, is one of the best accessories to preserve musk, amber and perfumed oil.

Picture of a parcel-gilt silver pomander, 1550
from http://www.fragonard.com/parfums_grasse/FR/fragonard/histoire_du_parfum_et_fragonard/de_l_antiquite_au_moyen_age.cfm


Modern perfumery began in the late 19th century with the commercial synthesis of aroma compounds such as vanillin or coumarin. It has to be a very luxurious good with the first crystal bottles made by famous manufacturers such as Lalique or Baccarat.
François Coty is the first perfumer to use synthetic scents. The Guerlain House launched its first successful perfumes such as Shalimar since 1828.

In 1911, Paul Poiret was the first to create a perfume as supplement to his fashion line. But Coco Chanel made the difference in 1921 by launching Chanel n°5 with one of the first commercials: an illustration of the designer herself.

Picture of Chanel n°5 first commercial
from http://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/features/scent-of-a-woman-how-does-chanel-stay-top-dog-in-the-perfume-world-1676219.html?action=gallery&ino=2

Fashion and perfume industries will keep very close ties since the industrialization and the acceleration of trade and development of brands.

References



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